Satin Doll is a big space. Unlike the closed, darkened corners and hushed ambiance of Sone, Satin Doll is open and almost echoes with the legends who have played at the bar in the past. Their autographs hang on massive canvases on the walls. The lights are moderate, the piano and drum set at the…
Big Apple is the opposite of Sone in ambience. With the lights up, it reminds me of my high school’s crappy Homecoming dances. Finished, sure, but the décor is, well, crowded. When you walk in on an evening with the lights dimmed, though, you don’t notice the décor. You notice the smoke, because smoke is…
Sone is the oldest Jazz club/restaurant in Kobe. It’s a family business. It’s also one of the largest clubs in Kobe. It’s in every guidebook that mentions Kobe’s Jazz scene, English or Japanese, and is at the top of the list, or near the top, every single time. Their food is, while expensive, very good, and their bartenders make a wide selection of proper cocktails, which are rated in the menu by alcohol content. If I were just judging the food and drink, I’d put it in the guidebooks myself…
Kobe has a lot of nice restaurants, especially in Kitanozaka. Between the city’s huge international population and the local branch of Le Cordon Bleu cooking school, the slopes of Mt. Rokko are practically layered with good eats. Expensive, but good. From that perspective, then, Vieni still stands out from the pack. Located across from Sone, a Kitanozaka Jazz club with an unearned reputation, Vieni is sitting on some prime real estate, so you know the place has to measure up.
The owner of Basin Street, Mr. Tachihiko Kawasaki, once said during a concert that he didn’t really like the song after which he named his bar. “It’s too downbeat,†he said. “I wanted to name the bar after ‘Satin Doll,’ but there’s already a Satin Doll in Kobe.†He may be dissatisfied with the name, but he’s very satisfied with his job. He gets to own the bar, play guitar and drums, and hang out with jazz musicians all the time. If this is what a mid-life crisis gets you, sign me up.
It has come to my attention, after a year or so of hanging around Kobe’s jazz clubs on the weekend, that I hardly ever see other foreigners who aren’t performing. This is a disappointment. I’ve mentioned my jazz excursions to other ALTs, and they’ve complained that there’s a dearth of information on Kobe’s jazz clubs in English, which is true. With that in mind, I’m starting a new series of articles here at HT, spotlighting jazz clubs and events. I’ll also answer any questions you may have about visiting Kobe to see a live show.